Saturday, January 25, 2014

Porterhouse Steaks - I Win

Sometime in the 1990s, when I wasn't paying enough attention (i.e. due to college and post-college idiocy), a trend became pretty mainstream in youth sports.  The trend?  That everyone receives a trophy.  Worse, in some cases, leagues didn't even keep score!  As a youth in youth sports in the late 70's and early 80's, I find that concept unfathomable.  Almost every great athletic memory of my childhood (not that there are that many) revolve around the quest to win, the buzzer beaters, the late-inning home run, the near-misses, the questionable decisions, etc.  My friends and I would talk about "how many trophies do you have?", and they actually MEANT SOMETHING!  The local Little League championship or the youth basketball league championship.  Man, those trophies were pursued!  Not that I want to get into my views of modern days and the reasons why we are the way we are in this space, but let it be known that I do believe the "middling" of our economy and this era of entitlement and enablement stems from the same philosophy that gives trophies out for participating.  I learned more from losing than I ever did from winning, and the lessons still apply today, i.e. continuously try to improve, persevere, never give up, etc.

In November of 2009, my wife and I got married in a Catholic church.  For anyone else who has done the same, you know that we went through a religious indoctrination to marriage called Pre-Cana.  It's an intensive (in our case) all-day seminar for engaged couples to learn, share, discuss their views on topics such as children, finances, house cleaning, etc.  For some couples, it could be the first time to discuss some of these areas that can cause future problems when you are not in alignment.  My wife (then, fiancee) and I thought it was "good", but we felt like we had already had many of those discussions.  And that of course, made us happy.  On the way home, we were laughing about some of the very young, wide-eyed couples who were overwhelmed with the topics, and we jokingly said that "We won Pre-Cana", and had a good laugh.  When our friends asked us how Pre-Cana was, we simply said "We won".

That joke has evolved.  Too far, perhaps.  When we gutted our house and moved back in a year later, we were so happy with the outcome that we said, "We won".  When we attended a pizza cooking class with about 30 other people, our pizza (calzone to be specific) was so good we decided that "we won" that too.  And most recently, while on vacation, we did an amazing hike to a glacier on the Icefields Parkway in Alberta, Canada, and at the top, we decided that "we won" that too.  We always laugh, and say it always in jest.

I already have many victories in this blog.  Finding Paulina Meat Market?  Win!  Buying the Big Green Egg?  Win!  Deciding to cook everything in Paulina's main display case?  Win!  So, on Thursday, I went to Paulina and picked up two Porterhouse Steaks, the ultimate marriage of New York Strip and Filet Mignon with the much needed bone and marble.  Yum.  Thanks again to Michael Symon's book, Carnivore, I broiled some Paulina bacon slices and crumbled them, I roasted a garlic bulb and mashed it with fresh parsley, fresh oregano, some salt and the zest and juice of a lemon, broiled the Porterhouses for 5 minutes per side, topped them with the garlic spread and the bacon crumbles and took a healthy bite (along with some Sweet Potato Mash that my wife makes that is vegetable candy, to go with bacon, i.e. meat candy).  Each of the recipes I've made so far in this quest have turned out great.  And I'm excited about the growing repertoire.  But these Porterhouses!  And that spread!  And the bacon!  All I can say is, and hopefully my prologue helps you understand....I WIN!

4 down...53 to go!

Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Pork Tenderloin - It's Not Just for Breakfast Anymore

I think most people have had a food "event" that essentially ruins their ability to eat that food for months, years and in some cases, forever.  For my wife, that event came at a town fair in her hometown of Sioux Center, IA.  As any good rural town fair does, they traditionally cooked pork, entire pigs I believe.  And unfortunately for her, she received a pork sandwich that included a bit too much of the "inedible", so to speak.  She was young, it was gross, and the taste of pork has never appealed to her again.  Unlike many people with food fears, she will try it from time to time, and even tolerate it, but she rarely enjoys it.  If it "tastes like pork", it's a neutral experience at best, and often bad.  If it tastes like bacon, sausage or ham, we're good.

So fast forward to my quest to cook everything in the Paulina Market main display case, and the pork cuts in particular, and you realize that I'm in an uphill battle.  But I am to that challenge.

Enter the Pork Tenderloin, a personal favorite cut of mine.  Prior to last night, I had only grilled them, sometimes marinated, sometimes only rubbed.  But never for my wife.

I got a 1.25 lb pound cut from Paulina, put a rub on it of Salt, Pepper and Sage, browned it slightly in a skillet, and roasted it with a sauce of Dark Rum, Pecans, Brown Sugar and Maple Syrup.  Well, thank you to the quality of the meat and an outstanding meat thermometer, the tenderloin was cooked perfectly and tasted delicious.  The sauce (I won't point out the recipe since I don't want to trash anyone) tasted more like something I would want on pancakes as opposed to a dinner pork tenderloin.  That said, it was delicious.  I just couldn't get over the "breakfast" aspects of the sauce.  As for the sauce, my wife agreed.  But here's the good news, in her words, "it didn't taste like pork".  So, I do believe that there is the possibility that we might enjoy pork tenderloin together, just not for breakfast anymore.

3 down, 54 to go!

Monday, January 13, 2014

Blade Potroast - Carrots, Shallots and Beer (Oh My)

The beauty of this whole attempt this year, is that I am no doubt going to be preparing meals that I dare say I would have not ever attempted previously.  So, once you settle into the fact that much of this is experimental, it's like a kid in Chemistry class adding just a little extra something to see what happens.  I look at the list of 57 cuts, and easily count more than half that fit that category.  So goes the tale of last night's Blade Potroast.

You may have picked up from previous posts that I am a transplanted Bostonian here in Chicago.  I am approaching the point of having lived in Chicago for half my life.  And other than a summer back in '94, for all of those 20+ years in Chicago, I did not have any family close.  Well, that has recently changed.  My younger cousin, who was all of 3 years old when I moved to Chicago, recently moved here to pursue interests in improvisational comedy.  It doesn't get better than Chicago for the pursuit of those interests, with Second City, Improv Olympic, Comedy Sportz, etc.  So, my wife and I have had the pleasure of hosting her a few times for dinner, and with the 2014 quest now underway, I have no doubt there will be many more.

So, blade potroast.  What the heck is that, right?  Well, I grabbed a 4 lb roast Saturday, with nice marbling, good sized bones, salted it on both sides, and let it rest overnight in the fridge.  Sunday a.m., with tremendous gratitude to Michael Symon's recipe for Pot Roast with Carrots, Shallots, Mint and Lemon from his book (and Christmas gift from my wife who knows me so well!) Carnivore, I introduced the roast to "slab bacon" (yep, I bought a 1 lb slab of bacon unsliced from Paulina), 16 peeled shallots, 5 mutantly large carrots, 4 bottles of Goose Island Sofie beer, some apple cider, some chicken broth, coriander seeds, bay leaves, garlic and garnished with lemon zest and a cup of fresh mint!  Wait, a second, I went past the slab bacon way too quickly.  Yes, slab bacon!  Just saying it makes me smile.  I diced it, fried it, took the bacon out and then browned the roast in the bacon fat (and then everything else just piled in).  But while the bacon sat idle, cooked and waiting for the roast to brown, it taunted me.  It was, to be sure, meat candy.  There really is no other way to describe dice-sized nuggets of cooked bacon.  And when it's from Paulina, and not some package in a regular grocery store?  Well, that's like comparing Dunkin' Donuts (the donuts, not the coffee which is outstanding) to Anna's Donuts in West Roxbury, MA (my first post-paper-route job at the ripe old age of 15).  If you know Anna's, you understand the comparison, which in fact, there is no comparison.  Thank you, Paulina for introducing me to the cooking benefits of your bacon.

Ok.  Deep breath.  Now, after doing the slab bacon part of this recipe, let's discuss the crazy deliciousness of this potroast.  Lemon zest and mint to garnish?  Holy cow, did that offer some wonder.  Everything was amazing.  The shallots melted and could easily have simply been spread on dinner rolls and been a meal unto themselves.  The carrots added some sweetness.  The beer broth was divine.  Washed it down with a bottle of 2007 Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet, and it was a true feast.  I'm only two meals into this endeavor, and I already know that this may be the only New Year's Resolution I ever accomplish.

2 down, 55 to go.

Thursday, January 9, 2014

Ground Chuck - Lobbing Meatballs

I am not one of those guys that necessarily comes out of the gate strong.  I tend to hold back a bit, survey the landscape, maybe dip the toe in the water, and amp things up when appropriate.  To embark upon this monumental task of cooking everything in Paulina's main display case in 2014 is daunting enough.  To come out of the gate with a Bottom Round or Sliced Liver, now that's just crazy talk.  Like the Boston Red Sox bullpen of the early 80's, I figured I'd come out and lob a meatball, literally (not the lobbing part).

I am lucky enough to have had four amazing grandparents.  And even luckier to have one still with me today.  My Grandma in the little town of Adams, MA is an inspiration to say the least.  She is 96 years old, and still cooks all-out, hold onto your pants buckles Italian feasts!  I mean, crazy amounts of food with ridiculous deliciousness.  I can honestly say that I have never had better spaghetti and meatballs in my life.  My late Grandfather used to make homemade sausage that accompanied said meatballs.  But I was too late to learn "how to make a sausage" from him.  My loss, to be sure.  But about 3 or 4 years ago, I placed a strategic call to my Grandma, and stayed on the phone with her for an hour or so, to understand what she did to make homemade red sauce and homemade meatballs.  Like a stereotype, she of course measured NOTHING!  So, my notes were filled with "lots of this", and "not as much of that" and "taste it, and add more if it needs it" and stuff like that.  The analyst in me then took over.  I went to the web to find other recipes that at least used the majority of those ingredients.  I found no silver bullets, but I found enough direction between her notes and recipes online to start the trial and error.  About five attempts in, I believe I have "mastered" her red sauce.  Only about three attempts in, I mastered the meatball.  And man, am I happy I placed that call.  We bonded, laughed and really enjoyed the conversation as I tried to document her approach.  And I now have a family legacy from Montescaglioso, Italy.  Now, that's cool!

To enjoy, I relied upon my lovely wife (who is perhaps the quintessential expert in all things spaghetti & meatballs) to enjoy Meal #1 of the quest.  And I invited a long time friend, and 12 year veteran of Day of Meat over for dinner.  Paulina's Ground Chuck, combined with salt, pepper, egg, bread crumbs and secret combinations of cheeses and seasonings.  A little browning, a little baking and little combining with the aforementioned homemade sauce, and you got my Grandma's spaghetti & meatballs.

Phew!  One down, 56 to go!

Wednesday, January 8, 2014

Table Setting for a Year of Meat

There is a long history between meat and me.  It's not a love hate story.  It is a love story.  You see, I love meat.  I love it so much that in 2002, I hosted a party called Day of Meat.  I established ground rules.  All day, from midnight to midnight, you could only eat meat.  I figured that there are many religious occasions where people abstain from meat.  I thought there was just cause to have a day where you must abstain from all foods except meat.  I hazed individuals that broke the rule, showing up with pretzels and brownies.  Nonsensical to bring those sorts of things to a Day of Meat.  There were less than 20 attendees.  We cooked an average of roughly 2 lbs of meat per person that year, which I believe is still a record.  And it was all consumed (along with many an adult beverage to wash it down).

This past August, we celebrated the 12th Annual Day of Meat.  There have been many attendees of Day of Meat.  Many repeat attendees and a few one-timers.  But it always pleases, and never disappoints.

Throughout these twelve years, I have had a close ally.  An ally that is not only there for the day itself, but an ally that is there with me all year long.  An ally that arms me with the ultimate need when testing, tasting and preparing all year for this penultimate day.  That ally is Paulina Meat Market, on the corner of Lincoln and Cornelia, in Chicago, IL.  It is a mecca of meat.  I refer to my trips to Paulina like going to Disney World.  I am full of wonder and awe.  The child in me always says, "Mom, Dad, can I have that?" referencing something in addition to what I went there to buy.  And the great thing about being an adult with a zero balance credit card, I can always say "Yes".  And "Yes" is always the answer.

In 2013, I bought a new toy, The Big Green Egg.  For those of you who don't know what it is, if you like meat, and aren't afraid to cook it, just buy one.  I smoke, sear, slow roast, grill and cook pizzas on it.  If there is an obsession I have (can you sense it?), it is with figuring out new and innovative ways to have the Big Green Egg cook me another meal.  It upped the ante.  Day of Meat 2013 became legendary with its inclusion.  An all-day slow roasted pork shoulder and some homemade spicy Carolina BBQ sauce added to the already full slate of brisket, bacon-wrapped weenies, teriyaki chicken, Italian sausage, meatballs, maple chipotle marinated skirt steak, etc., made the 2013 Day of Meat the most memorable.  And that, my friends, is saying a lot.

So fast forward to December 2013.  I discussed it.  I joked about it.  I started spreading the word about it.  Yep, my 2014 goal as it related to my old friend meat, my long-time ally Paulina and my newest obsession, The Big Green Egg.  I am committed to it.  I am now ready.  In the last week of December, I visited Paulina and took pictures of everything in the "main display case".  I had to cut off the madness somewhere.  Yep.  This is my goal.  My 2014 dream.  To cook and eat every single cut in the main display case of Paulina Market.  What is in there?  Funny you should ask.  57 cuts.  57.  That is more than one per week.  And yes, with it being January 8th already, you could argue I am behind schedule.  I won't cook everything in the Big Green Egg, but I will surely maximize its use, particularly when it gets out from all the snow we have (April, maybe?).

My hope is to blog about each one.  And provide some suggestions along the way.  Well, I have 56 to go (more on that later).  This is the introduction.  The opening salvo.  Wish me luck, and I hope you enjoy the ride.  Oh, and most important, here is the list:

Paulina Main Display Case Meat List:
BEEF:
New York Strip Steak
Boneless Top Sirloin Steak
Ribeye Steak
Sirloin Steak
T-Bone/Porterhouse Steak
Tenderloin/Filet Steak
Flat Iron Steak
Tomahawk Steak
Bone-In New York Strip Steak
Bone-In Rib Eye Steak
Prime Rib Eye
Prime New York Strip Steak
London Broil
Flank Steak
Round Steak
Ground Chuck
Beef Stew (just meat)
Honeymoon Potroast
Boston Rolled
Roundbone Potroast
Blade Potroast
Sliced Liver
Brisket
Sirloin Tip Roast
Bottom Round
Eye of Round
Rump Roast
Rib Roast
Oxtails
Short Ribs
Shank with Bone
Cubed Steak
Hanger Steak
VEAL:
Rolled Roast
Osso Bucco
Boneless
Chops
Ground Veal
Veal Stew (just meat)
LAMB:
Loin Chops
Shoulder (Blade Bone)
Shoulder (Round Bone)
Ground Lamb
Rosettes
Lamb Stew (meat only)
Leg with Bone
PORK:
Tenderloin
Center Cut Chops
Butterflied Chops
Pork Chop Suey (just meat)
Ground Pork
Pork Stew (just meat)
Loin Rolled (Boneless)
Baby Back Ribs
Shoulder
Shanks
Center Cut Pork Roast